Pike barigoule
In this preparation, from Thomas Keller’s Bouchon cookbook, a simply seared pike fillet is paired with a wonderful artichoke stew.
(Serves 4)
Ingredients:
- 4 lemons, halved
- 4 large artichokes
- ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
- 2 large onions, cut into 1/8-inch slices salt and pepper, to taste
- 2 tablespoons minced garlic
- 1 large carrot, cut into 1/8-inch rounds
- 2 cups dry white wine, such as sauvignon blanc
- 2 cups chicken stock
- 3 sprigs thyme
- 3 sprigs Italian parsley
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 anchovy, rinsed and minced
- 4 pike fillet portions, about 6 ounces each
- 2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley
To prepare the artichokes:
- Place enough water in a container to submerge the four trimmed artichoke hearts.
- Add the juice of three lemons and the lemon shells to the water.
- Trim the artichokes by holding with the stem end toward you and pull off the leaves, working your way around the artichoke until you have pulled off the tough outer leaves and are left with a cone of tender, yellow leaves.
- Repeat with the remaining artichokes.
- Trim the stems flush with the artichoke bottoms.
- Cut off the top two-thirds of the artichoke, from the top to where the meaty heart begins, and discard the trimmings.
- With a vegetable peeler (a Y-peeler works best), trim away all the dark green from around the heart and the stem.
- Using a spoon or melon baller, scoop out the fuzzy choke from the center of the artichoke.
- Throughout the process, periodically rub the remaining lemon halves over the artichokes to prevent discoloration.
- Pour the oil into a small pot that will just hold the artichokes in a single layer.
- When the oil is hot, add the onions, salt and pepper, and cook gently for 2 to 3 minutes.
- Add the garlic, then the carrots, and season with 1 /2 teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper.
- Cover and cook over low heat for 2 minutes to soften.
- Drain the artichoke hearts and place them stem side down on the vegetables.
- Add the white wine, bring to a simmer, and cook for 1 minute.
- Add enough chicken stock to cover the artichokes by ¼ to ½ inch.
- Add the thyme, parsley, and bay leaves, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
- Lay a clean dish towel or piece of cheesecloth on top of the artichoke hearts to keep them submerged, and simmer for 35 to 40 minutes, until the hearts are tender when pierced with a knife.
- Stir in the anchovy and remove from the pot.
- The artichoke stew can be stored for 1 to 2 days if needed.
To complete:
- Remove the artichoke hearts from the liquid and place them upside down on a cutting board.
- Cut each heart in half, then cut each half into four wedges.
- Return the wedges to the liquid and bring to a simmer over medium heat.
- Meanwhile, season the skin side of the fish with salt and the flesh side with salt and pepper.
- Sear the fillets skin side down and immediately place a pot or smaller skillet on top to weigh the fish down for 20 to 30 seconds. This will prevent the fillets from curling.
- Continue cooking skin side down for 3 minutes, until the bottom is golden brown and the flesh is cooked halfway through.
- Flip the fillets over and cook for 30 seconds. (The residual heat will finish cooking them.)
- Drain the fish on paper towels.
- Stir in the parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice to the artichoke mixture, taste for seasoning, then divide among four serving plates.
- Top with the fillets, skin side up, and drizzle some olive oil over the dish to serve.
Martin Mallet lives just outside the pike’s native range. Sometimes when he’s spearing smelts in the winter, he wishes he were in Michigan, chasing bigger fish.
